Puri Saren Agung is the place where Ubud's long tradition of home stays all began, more than 80 years ago, when Bali first started to attract bohemian artists from around the world. Renting one of five traditional stone bungalows in the sumptuous royal courtyard is still quite an experience, and every night the palace comes alive with the sound of Gamelan music as Balinese dances are performed just across the wall from Puri Saren Agung.